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Home Automation Tips and Tricks Archive
February 1998

My home theater (family room) has a lot of lights to control. Several of the lights are floor cans which wash the walls (white) with colored lights, there is track lighting, several table lamps, a red floor can behind the TV, lights over the stairs (the family room is on the top floor), etc..

I was able to set four scenes which made sense. The scenes vary from scene 1, normal lighting, to scene 4, dim colored lights on the walls and behind the TV, no overhead or table lamps.

I wanted a way to automatically cycle from scene 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 when I start up the home theater. I programmed a schedule to do this at the activation of the "movie time" remote x-10 control, but this part of the programming proved unwieldy. I thought there had to be a better way.

I decided to try and use a variable that that would change based on a timer to cycle through the scenes. This proved to work great. I already had an x-10 remote to activate each scene. I simply added an "or" statement to the programming:

If A-1 ON or MovieRoomLevel = 1 then (set scene 1, idle A-1) If A-1 OFF or MovieRoomLevel = 2 then (set scene 2, idle A-1) If A-2 ON or MovieRoomLevel = 3 then (set scene 3, idle A-2) If A-2 OFF or MovieRoomLevel = 4 then (set scene 4, idle A-2)

A timer initialized the variable MovieRoomLevel at 1, then every 30 seconds, added 1 to the MovieRoomLevel until it reached 4. This timer was activated by the "move time" remote.

When "movie time" was turned off a timer initialized the MovieRoomLevel variable at 4 and subtracted 1 every 30 seconds to gradually light the room when the movie was over.

Gradually, I have started to use variables to set "whole house" scenes. This method greatly simplifies schedule programming by allowing normal scene-setting routines to be enhanced by the simple addition of an "or" statement and a variable.

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If you own a salt water aquarium, then I'm sure you know of the tedious task required to maintain it. I have had salt water aquariums for years now and finally got around to using my home automation system to perform most of the tedious tasks such as monitoring/measuring PH, Temperature, Water-Changing...etc...

Using a PH sensor and a modified temperature sensor hooked up to my Stargate system, I am able to daily announce the PH and Temperature levels automatically or upon request by touch-tone phone commands (Home or Away). The most interesting automation task was the water-changing task. As most salt-water lovers like myself know, you should change approximately 20-25% of the tanks water monthly (for many reasons I won't go into). My 100 gallon salt water tank therefore need to have 20 gallons pumped out and 20 gallons of new (already mixed,... proper PH and everything) water pumped back in. I use a 50 gallon plastic reservoir/holding tank which I premix with proper PH, proper temp...etc... {one of the few tasks I still have to do} I used two mini sump pumps to carry the water to and from the tank and controll them using two appliance modules. For safety purposes, I have both of these appliance modules connected to another appliance module which supplied the main power (this module has to be ON in order for either pump to turn on). I also built two simple tank level indicators using plastic floats connected to micro-switches {weight of float closed switch and when float is floating, switch opens} These upper and lower level indicators are connected to the digital inputs of the Stargate. Stargate schedule first activates the main powering appliance module and then activates the module which supplies power to the pump which pumps out water (to drain). Stargate keeps looking at the low level indicator and shuts off the pump when this low level is detected. Stargate then starts the pump which pumps fresh/new salt water into the tank. Stargate keeps monitoring the upper/high level indicator and shuts off the pump when the upper level is reached. WORKS GREAT! I'm still working on a way to adjust the PH and other levels automatically but still am reserve about the idea (I have some very expensive fish which I don't want to kill by experimenting!)

List of Components: (Wish I had more time.. I would had included pix)

• 3 Appliance Modules (1 for main power/safety, 2 for either pump)
• 2 Mini Sump pumps (110 VAC powered)
• 2 Water Level Indicators (be creative! I was!)

Approximate Total Cost of Components:

• CHEAP! I purchased the pumps as Close-Out items... $10 each 3 appliance modules ... say $30 max ... sensors?... $5-10

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Many of us rush out of the house in the mornings forgetting the bag of dry cleaning, the home made cookies for that school fuction, or that file for a 10:00 meeting.

I have used a mini recorder, motion dector, power flasher , x-10 appliance, and mini controller with timer, or a pc base autionmation management program like home director by IBM.

I first use the mini recorder to record messages to myself like "Do not for get the dry cleaning bag in the laundry room, bring cookie for staff meeting, get xyz company file off my desk and place into breifcase. I either sit down at night in preparing for my next day and make these note, or carry the mini recorder with me thru out my day making notes.

Then using the ac adaptor on the mini recorder i plug it into a x-10 appliance module and press the play button.then conceal behind a plant in the garage.

With a motion detector placed in the garage aimed at the door to the house, it is triggered sending a signal to the powerflasher which sends power to the x-10 appliance module plays a list to do items. A date book would do the same if I looked at it before leaving the house , other wise i would have to drive back home to get items. A mini controller with timer or pc based program allows me to set this fuction only to be active in the mornings before my usall departure time.

The same system could be set to be ativated between 3:00 and 4:00pm for the kids arrivng home from school. by adding a simple phone dialer from radio shack. I can prerecord a message on the phone dialing to call my office when the montion dector is triggered by the kids arriving from school. You may want it to call your voice mail and leave the message, if you have pager forwarding notifcation the the message is delivered no matter where you are in your city. Dont forget to put a 20 sec lead on the tape message, so your voicemail message will play and the your message plays after the beep.

The dialers from radio shack have three numbers to dial if desired one for the kids and one for the maid on tues. by using your timer controll you will know if the made really come to work on time.

• x-10 appliance module 12.00
• power flasher 25.00
• mini time contoller 15.00
• montion dector 20.00
• mini recorder 35.00
• optional phone dialer 69.00

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I have x-10 motion detector lights around my house. The house is isolated and with the home invasion type robberies being common these days, I wanted a way to know if someone / something had been around the perimeter of the house. I have an unused guest room upstairs with a window that faces the road. I thought of this while rummaging thru the holiday decorations. I took one of the single "electric" candle type lights. ( A small light on a brass base approximatly 6 inches tall. ) and put it in a corner inside on the window sill. I put a 10 watt green bulb in so that it would be hard to notice by a would be intruder. Then attached it to an appliance module. Now when the X-10 motion sensor lights are tripped they turn on this "indicator" light through the Activehome CM11A. We can see the light from the driveway entrance as a green glow in an upstairs window. It's even bright enough to see in the daylight without being "obtrusive" at night. It gives us a little "heads up" to be cautious and look for any thing suspicious. Sure it may have just been the UPS man, but better safe than sorry.

Components used:

• X-10 Appliance module ( Two Prong)
• Small "candle type" Christmas light Total Cost ~$18.00

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I have my Pool / Spa pump in a location which is quite difficult to get at. However I need to check the pressure gauge on the filter weekly to tell when the filter needs to be cleaned. Because the filter is in an out of the way location I often forgot. So I "automated" the notification by installing a "TEE" fitting on the gauge line and a pressure sensing switch which activates at 12-15 PSI. The pool filter manufacture recommends that the filter be cleaned when the gauge reads 15 PSI. I have a powerflash module (Mode 2) hooked to the pressure switch. I use mode 2 since this leaves the light on even when the pump has turned off for the day. This way I am told that an overpressure condition did occur. This is set to activate a small light plugged into an appliance module in my garage. The location of this light makes it impossible to miss when entering or leaving the garage. This setup cost approximately $50.00 total and probably saves me that much in three months with reduced pool chemical usage and hundreds in potential savings over the cost of a ruined pool pump due to a clogged filter.

Components:

• Powerflash Module $23.00
• Appliance Module (2 prong) $12.00
• Nightlite type lamp( 5 watt ) $4.00
• Pressure switch (Industrial/automotive) $12.00
• Various small pressure switches are available at farm implement / Automotive stores, just pick the one that suits.
• Tee Fitting $1.00

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Problem:

I want to interface my personally designed (insert electronic thingy) to send X10 commands, but I cannot spend too much.

Solution:

#1 If (insert electronic thingy) uses AC or is not portable:

Get an X10 mini controller and take it apart. This controller can send out your bright/dim/on/off signals for all 256 codes, with some simple TTL signals with the correct connections. All you have to do is interface TTL signals to the switches. The other nice thing is that you can do this interfacing in a small box. For your home electrical designer only. Remember you will be working with AC and neither I nor HTI or any of their affiliates can be held responsible for any accidents.

#2 If (insert electronic thingy) is portable

Instead of using a mini conroller use a keychain remote. Same style of interface but loses the number of signals you can send out. Note the antenna is directional, this may cause problems.

Cost:

• $8 for the mini Controller or $15 for the remote (Assuming you have a base)
• $0-20 for the switch interfacing (depends on how many combinations you want to control)
• $8-28 for mini controller.
• $15-35 for the Keychain.

Plus some spare time.

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Have you ever wished there was a device you could connect to your existing switched-outlet which would send an appropriate X-10 ON/OFF in response of the existing switch position! WELL! I have just the idea for you!

DESCRIPTION: I have been using 4 setups descibed below ever since last year when I encountered the same problem. Most of my bedrooms have existing wall switches located just inside the doorway. They control an existing 110VAC outlet (actually, only one half of the duplex outlet is controlled by the switch, the other half is always powered... this is pretty normal in most switch outlet configurations... I've sometimes heard it called "California Wiring" ??)

In the switch controlled outlet, I plugged in a 110VAC-to-4.5VDC wallwart/transformer. The VDC output of this transformer was then connected to a PowerFlash Module (via series & parallel resistors, one to limit current into Powerflash unit and another to discharge transformer when powered OFF). This PowerFlash Module is set to receive VDC (Input Select = 1) and is also set to trigger ON/OFF the selected X-10 Housecode & Unit Code (Mode Select = 3). Unfortunately, this duplex outlet is completely dedicated for this use since both outlets being occupied.

OPERATION: When you now switch ON the existing switch, the switched outlet supplies power to the transformer which in turn supplies VDC to the PowerFlash Module. Upon the Powerflash sensing VDC, it sends an X-10 ON signal for the selected House/Unit Code. When the switch is turned off, the transformer is de-energized, (with help of parallel resistor). This absense of VDC sensed by the Powerflash tells it to then send an X-10 OFF command for the selected House/Unit Code. You can then control another light (most likely in the same room) by using either an appliance or lamp module set to the identical House/Unit Code as the PowerFlash module.

REQUIRED MATERIAL:

• 1 - Switched Duplex Outlet (1 outlet switched, other always powered)
• 1 - X-10 PowerFlash Module
• 1 - 110VAC-to-5vDC Plug-in Transformer
• 2 - 10K resistors (1 in parallel w/ Xformer, 1 in series to Powerflash)
• 1 - Appliance or Lamp Module

APPROXIMATE COST: Under $30

VIOLA! You can use that existing switched dulex outlet for a GREAT purpose after all! This same light can also be controlled with all other X-10 controllers you have in your HA system. You can even monitor it's status (via Stargate, Homevision, ActiveHome etc...) seeing that every time the switch is toggled, it transmits X-10 signals! (unlike the ordinary X-10 wall switches)

Please let me know if you need any more info!

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Hydroponic History

Ever since my first visit to "The Land", an EPCOT™ center attraction that includes a hydroponic vegetable demonstration and research site, I was enthralled with the idea of a hydroponic vegetable garden of my own.

For those that may not be familiar with hydroponic technology, it is simply an alternative method by which one can grow common plants. The difference between hydroponic and standard gardens is that hydroponic gardens do not require dirt. The plants are grown in one of several different types of alternative media. My garden uses "rockwool" which resembles fiberglass insulation that has been packed into 4"x4" square cubes. The rockwool is actually spun like cotton candy from liquefied basaltic rock. The roots of the plant weave their way through the rockwool, and establish themselves as if they were in dirt.

Considering that a plant grown in a "dirt" garden extracts its nutrients from the dirt itself, you might wonder where a plant grown in a hydro-garden gathers it nutrients. Hydroponic gardens require a nutrient solution. This solution is created by carefully mixing liquid fertilizers into distilled water. The solution is then used to irrigate the rockwool cubes several times per day. The solution is recirculated throughout the system for 1-2 weeks before a new batch is required.

My Very First Time

I started my first hydro-garden in December 1993 (living in Minnesota, there is no chance of having an outside vegetable garden in December) and used two cheap wall-wart timers to control the High Intensity Discharge (HID) lamp, and nutrient batch flow pump.

My garden included one each of the following: Green bell pepper, red bell pepper, and a yellow bell pepper.

You may recall that in 1993 bell peppers other than green sold for about $4~5 per pound in the grocery stores. I love the sweetness of the yellow and red pepper variety, but found it difficult to pay those prices for low quality, store bought peppers.

I quickly realized that the timers keep very lousy wall-clock time, and must be checked and reset at least once per week. Additionally, because I use artificial lighting for my plants, I must alter the programmed on/off times of the HID lamp to simulate changing seasons. My plants would not flower or produce fruit if the season never changed.

Because a plant cannot process nutrients when there is no light available, I must also vary the flow pump cycle on/off times to coincide with the HID lamp on/off times.

The simulated change of a season is incremental and a very tedious process when using "pin-type" wall timers for two timed processes (the flow pump requires three cycles per day), and it became the most dissatisfying and ill attended chore of my hydro-gardening hobby.

Because of my disinterest in continually "re-programming" my timers, the productivity of my peppers suffered. These plants never really had a predictable change of season, it would either be too fast or too slow a change, always sporadic and unpredictable. Therefore, the fruit was sparse and small.

I eventually tired of the unforeseen maintenance of season simulation, and shut down my hydro-garden. My family and friends who had sampled my superior tasting but small peppers, were very sad to hear of this.

Hydro-garden revisited

I am an electronics hobbiest, and what some might call a Midnight Engineer. I try to keep up with new technology and products. I was introduced to home automation and X10 control a short time after I shutdown my first hydro-garden.

Immediately after reading about home automation, I knew there was some way I could apply this kind of technology to return the fun and satisfaction into my abandoned hydro-gardening hobby.

I dreamed-up many complex plans and software processes to create the perfect season simulation, but never seemed to get the time to start-up the garden again.

Well, last month (November) after a 4-year hiatus, I have again started my hydroponic garden! This time the light and flow cycles are controlled with X10 modules, and Windows based software.

I have planted some of the vegetables necessary for making homemade picante sauce (which incidentally, contains bell peppers ;-). I currently have 4 plants that are ~3" tall after 1 month of growth from seeds.

My garden contains 1 each of the following:

• Fajita Bell (Spicy Bell Pepper) - Sorry, no picture available
• Golden Bell (Yellow Bell Pepper) - No picture available

For the Hydro-Garden hardware, I use the following equipment:

• 2 - x10 appliance modules (am466) - $12.43ea (One for the HID lamp and one for the nutrient flow pump).
• The Windows based ActiveHome Computer Interface Package (CK11A package) - $44.95

Cost of pepper seeds ($5.00 total)

Approximate total cost - $75.00

This hardware and software package allows me to develop a simulated seasonal transition. I can then store the transition timing in the EEPROM of CK11a interface. I also store the "macros" on my PC’s hard disk so I can recall specific season transitions (i.e. winter to spring, spring to summer) at the desired time and download them to the CK11a.

This totally alleviates the need for moving pins on a wall-timer continuously and thus removes the tedium that I found so loathsome with my first garden.

As an added bonus, the ActiveHome kit comes with a Lamp Module, so now I am also starting to control lights around the house, and have plans to add more modules and wall sockets incrementally.

I have also chosen to investigate an upgrade to my X10 system so that it can interpret analog measurements (i.e. Temperature, humidity, and nutrient solution parameters) in my hydro-garden, and control processes via X10 in response to those measured parameters.

This of course adds further expense, but can be incrementally installed, as my budget will allow.

Happy Automating, and best regards.

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The MS12A is quite a sophisticated little device. Not only is it a motion detector, it is a dawn/dusk sensor too! The passive IR motion detector sends (via RF) a preselected Unit ON command when motion is detected and an OFF command when no motion has been detected for approximately 6 minutes. The second sensor, the Dusk/Dawn sensor, sends an X-10 ON command (+1 unitcode of preselected housecode for motion sensor) when darkness is detected and an OFF command when light is detected. Now, the only weird thing which X-10 had decided to do was to integrate the two sensors such that the passive IR sensor only communicates (transnits RF) when the Dusk/Dawn sensor is detecting darkness. Hmmmmm........ If only there was a switch or control for this!

Under normal operations, the motion detector only works when the Dusk/Dawn sensor detects darkness. Therefore, motion would then cause an X-10 command to be transmitted. Now, if the lights are on and the Dusk/Dawn sensor senses light, it will not allow the motion sensor to send the X-10 OFF command after the 6 or so minutes of not sensing motion. Believe it or not, this is how X-10 designed them.

Anyway, there are three ways to alter this dang Dusk/Dawn sensor. One modification is to completely remove the Dusk/Dawn sensor capability! There are two methods to accomplish this. The easiest and simplist way is to remove power to the Dusk/Dawn circuitry. Another variant to removing the Dusk/Dawn feature is to completely cover the CDS cell with heat-shrink tubing by placing a long enough piece over the CDS cell which will fake the MS12 out in thinking that it is always dark. (Believe me, the snipping of the jumper is the easiest!!) The last modification is to make a small change to the circuit such that R8 (68K) is removed and a mini 150K (or so) ohm potentiometer is inserted in its place. This mod would allow for Dusk/Dawn sensitivity adjustment. This mod (granted not as easy as the previous) would require you to also make a small mod to the enclosure such that the potentiometer sticks out of the case (just a lil') so that you can simply adjust it with your finger. (Click on the picture above to view an enlargement of my modified MS12 with Dusk/Dawn sensitivity adjustment!)

Using Heat-Shrink tubing to trick the MS12A
Open the battery compartment and remove the two (2) AAA batteries. Remove the 4 screws on the back 4 corners and separate the top and bottom halves of the enclosure. Toward the center of the circuit board you will see 2 sensors. The motion sensor is the round "can-like" object in the middle of the circuit board with a square glass-like window. The Dusk/Dawn sensor is located just down and to the right of this (a glass bead with a squiggly line). Obtain a 1 inch piece of heat-shrink tubing large enough in diameter to cover the CDS cell. Carefully heat the tubing until it fully shrinks around the sensor then quickly (while the tubing is still hot) pinch the top just above the actual CDS sensor with pliers. It is very important to seal the light out completely. Put it all back together and test to be sure it is operating properly.

Removing power to the Dusk/Dawn sensing circuitry
Open the battery compartment and remove the two (2) AAA batteries. Remove the 4 screws on the back 4 corners and separate the top and bottom halves of the enclosure. Toward the center of the circuit board you will see 2 sensors. The motion sensor is the round "can-like" object in the middle of the circuit board with a square glass-like window. The Dusk/Dawn sensor is located just down and to the right of this (a glass bead with a squiggly line). Now, locate the wired jumper (3/8" long) just above the CDS sensor. To completely disable the MS-12A Dusk/Dawn sensor you must snip the jumper and be certain that the jumper is open. You can slightly bend one piece of it up so they will not touch. Put it all back together and test to be sure it is operating properly.

Without either of these two mods, you would have to code/program each MS-12 such that they are separated by two unitcodes (due to the fact that the Dusk/Dawn sensor uses the +1 unitcode of motion sensor). Now, when the Dusk/Dawn sensor is disabled, you can then code them closer together, not worrying about the "+1 unitcode" problems!

Adding a Dusk/Dawn Sensitivity Adjustment
Open the battery compartment and remove the two (2) AAA batteries. Remove the 4 screws on the back 4 corners and separate the top and bottom halves of the enclosure. Toward the center of the circuit board you will see 2 sensors. The motion sensor is the round "can-like" object in the middle of the circuit board with a square glass-like window. The Dusk/Dawn sensor is located just down and to the right of this (a glass bead with a squiggly line). Now, to the far right of the CDS sensor, locate resistor R8 (68K) and carefully remove it from the circuit board. Obtain a mini 150K potentiometer and solder it in its place. (you might have to bend the potentiometer's leads a bit to make it fit). The enclosure (top and bottom shells) will have to be customized (exacto-blade or Dremel) to allow for the potentiometer body and dial. Make sure that the potentiometer dail extends past the body of the enclosure such that you can easily adjust it with your finger. Set the potentiometer to its middle position (roughly 75K) and test to be sure it is operating properly. If all works fine, reassemble and try fooling around with the adjustment to fit your need.

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